Edibles

Onions: Sow and Grow Guide

Onions: Sow and Grow Guide

Growing onions from seed offers a wider variety, is less expensive, and gives you more control over growing conditions than using starter plants.

GENERAL INFORMATION

Choosing a Bulbing Onion
Bulbing onions' bulb growth is triggered by day length, which varies with latitude. Onion bulbs are actually an extension of the above-ground leaves. Starting onions seeds early in the season produces larger leaf growth prior to day length, triggering bulb growth, which means better potential for large bulbs. Understanding what varieties grow best in your area is the first step to success.

Long-day varieties grow well in the north (above the 37th parallel), as they need 14 to 16 hours of daylight to trigger bulb formation. Intermediate-day varieties overlap the long and short day ranges a bit and cover the middle of the country (32nd to 42nd parallels). These varieties start the bulbing process when day length is 12 to 14 hours.

Short-day varieties are best sown in fall in the south (below the 35th parallel), for a late winter/early spring harvest. These varieties need 10 to 12 hours of daylight to trigger bulbing. Depending on soil temperature, southern gardeners may choose to sow onion seed directly into the garden. In the north, short-day onions may be grown over the winter in a greenhouse, or transplanted out in the spring; this method produces earlier but smaller bulbs.

Among the above types of onions, cultivars will also vary in storage length. Storage Onions have thicker skin, stronger flavor, and can be stored for 2 months or longer. Sweet Onions are softer, sweet, and best used within a few weeks after harvest.

GENERAL SOWING
When to sow outside: 4 to 6 weeks before average last frost, or as soon as soil can be worked; when soil temperature is at least 45°F. In mild climates, sow in late summer or early fall.
When to start inside: RECOMMENDED.

Bulbling Onions
In cold climates, seeds should be started indoors 10 to 12 weeks ahead of your average last spring frost. In mild climates, sow seeds indoors 6 to 8 weeks prior to transplanting in late summer or early fall.

Leeks and Shallots
Leeks and shallots are similar to onions—the bigger the transplant, the better potential for larger product—so start these early (8 to 10 weeks before average last spring frost). Shallots are cold hardy and can also be transplanted out in the fall, and over-wintered in any USDA zone.

Bunching Onions
Sow bunching onions indoors 8 to 10 weeks before average last frost.

INDOOR SOWING
Use a lightweight seed-starting mix/media (sterile, and lighter than potting mix), and sow seeds ½" deep about ½" apart. Thinning is not necessary. When seedlings get tall, they may begin to flop over; if this happens, trim them to 3" tall to keep them upright. Read about more indoor sowing tips.

Containers
Onions can be sown by broadcasting seeds in a wide, shallow container with drainage or in cell packs.

Transplanting
In cold climates, transplant onion seedlings 4 to 6 weeks before your average last spring frost. In mild climates, transplant onions in late summer or early fall.

After hardening off, transplant onions, shallots, and leeks up to 4" deep. This may leave only a tiny bit of green poking up through the soil; this leaves room for the bulb to grow and in the case of leeks, it blanches stems (keeps them white with better flavor). Don’t worry; leaf growth will quickly catch up. Scallions and bunching onions can be grown densely; all others should be separated into individual plants. Bulbing onions are transplanted 3"–4" apart. Shallots are transplanted 6" apart and leeks are transplanted 6" apart.

OUTDOOR SOWING
Sowing or transplanting preparation and spacing
Prepare soil so it is light and well drained; high in nitrogen and rich in organic matter, and free from rocks, sticks and clods. Onions are heavy feeders. Amend your planting area according to soil test suggestions.

Weeding
Keep growing area weed-free. An onion's size can decrease 4% per day if competing with weeds (e.g., 50% in 2 weeks). If the bulb pushes itself out of the ground, you may cover it lightly with straw, but not soil, as soil will prevent the onion bulb from forming properly.

Water
Keep evenly moist; do not allow to dry out. Water stress will reduce yields and bulb size. Always water immediately after fertilizing. The closer to harvest time, the more water the onions will require, but when the tops begin to fall over, stop watering.

Special Instructions
Once greens are 8"–10" tall, beds can be heavily mulched or hilled with soil to reduce weed pressure and conserve water.

HARVESTING

Bulbing onions and shallots can be harvested at any time, but to get the largest bulbs and longest storage time look for a few cues from the plant. When bulbing onions and shallot tops have fallen over and turned yellow or brown, they are ready for harvest. Harvest in the morning, lifting onions with a garden fork. Dry them in the garden in the sun for 2 to 3 days, lightly covering the bulbs with straw, or the tops of other onions to prevent sunscald. Cure onions for 3 to 7 days in a dry area with good air circulation. Once dry, cut the roots to 1/4", and the greens to 1" to create a seal to prevent decay.

Bunching onions and leeks can also be harvested at any time and both are frost tolerant but should be harvested before a hard freeze (bunching onion species Allium fistulosum can actually overwinter). Many gardeners prefer to harvest leeks after a light frost, as the sugars produced to prevent freezing make the onions sweeter.

COMMON PESTS AND DISEASES
Botrytis Blight, also called gray mold, is a common fungal disease of onions. The first signs of infection are tiny, water soaked spots on leaves, stems, and fruit. The spots enlarge and become soft and watery, and plant tissues turn light brown and crack open, allowing fuzzy gray spores to emerge. The botrytis fungus overwinters on plant debris, and in the spring, spores are transported to new sites by wind, water, and dirty garden tools. The spores reproduce rapidly during periods of very high humidity or wet weather, and temperatures of 60°–76°F. Plant in well-drained soil, and keep air circulation high with proper spacing. If possible, avoid leaf wetting when watering. To reduce the spread of the disease, remove and discard infected plant parts (do not compost), clean up garden debris in the fall, and sanitize your garden tools regularly.

Bulb Onion Comparison

Variety Sub-
category
Heirloom/
Hybrid
Day
Length
Storage Sweet Shape/
Size
Days to
Maturity
Noteworthy
Onion Bulb Cabernet Organic Seeds ‘Cabernet’ Bulb Hybrid Inter-
mediate
X 2"–3" round 100–125 4-6 month storage
Onion Bulb Flat of Italy HEIRLOOM Seeds ‘Flat of Italy’ Bulb Heirloom Inter-
mediate
X 1" tall by 2"–3" wide flattened 70
Onion Bulb Red Amposta Seeds ‘Red Amposta’ Bulb Inter-
mediate
X 3"–4" round 115
Onion Bulb Ringmaster Seeds ‘Ringmaster’ Bulb Long X 4"–5" round 120 Pink root disease resistance
Onion Bulb Walla Walla Organic HEIRLOOM Seeds ‘Walla Walla’ Bulb Heirloom Long X 4"–6" round 100–125 Fast maturing; also performs well in intermediate areas.
Onion Bulb Yellow Granex PRR Seeds ‘Yellow Granex PRR’ Bulb Hybrid Short X 3"–4" wide flattened bulbs 120–150 Grown as “Vidalia” in Georgia, super sweet. Pink root disease resistance.
Onion Bulb Yellow Sweet Spanish Utah Seeds ‘Yellow Sweet Spanish Utah’ Bulb Heirloom Long X 3½"–5" round 100 Short storage. Utah state vegetable.
Onion Cipollini Borettana HEIRLOOM Seeds ‘Borettana’ Cipollini Heirloom Long X 1" tall by
2"–3" wide flattened
100 4-month storage
Onion Shallot Zebrune HEIRLOOM Seeds ‘Zebrune’ Shallot Heirloom Long X Huge 2"–6" torpedo shaped 100 ”Escallion” or “banana” type that can only be grown from seed. Also called “chicken leg” shallot.


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